Mushrooms
The term "mushroom" is used loosely to mean the whole family of edible fungi. There are three broad categories: common cultivated white mushrooms, exotic cultivated ones such as shiitake and oyster mushrooms, and wild fungi such as chanterelles, ceps and truffles.
PREPARING CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS
Mushrooms can be eaten raw or cooked. Ordinary white mushrooms are grown in pasteurized compost, so need only wiping. If very dirty, rinse briefly. Do not soak them or they will become soggy. Button mushroom can be left whole or halved, larger ones may be sliced or chopped.
1. Trim off the woody ends of the stalks with a small knife. Save the trimmings for use in stocks and soups.
2. Wipe the mushrooms gently with damp paper towels, removing any compost still clinging to them.
SLICING
Put the mushrooms stalk-side down on a cutting board. Slice lengthwise with a chef's knife.
PREPARING WILD MUSHROOMS
Fresh wild mushrooms deteriorate quickly, so use them as soon as possible. If storing briefly, keep them in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Most wild mushrooms do not need washing or peeling, but check with your supplier.
1. Gently brush off any earth that is still clinging to the mushrooms with a small brush or a clean cloth. Be careful not to damage the delicate flesh of the caps.
2. Trim off the woody ends of the stalks with a small knife. Leave as much of the flesh as possible. Many wild mushrooms are left whole or simply halved lengthwise, to preserve their attractive shape, but they can also be sliced in the same way as cultivated mushrooms.
FINELY CHOPPING MUSHROOMS
A quick method of chopping mushrooms for duxelles is to use two chef's knives held together in one hand. Secure the tips of the blades with your other hand and then chop, using a rocking motion. This limits the time the mushrooms are exposed to air and helps prevent discoloration. For a whiter duxelles, use only the mushroom caps.
DUXELLES
Duxelles is a classic French combination of finely chopped mushrooms and shallots or onions sautéed in butter until quite dry. Used as a stuffing for Beef Wellington, or a garnish, it is said to have been created by La Varenne, chef of the Marquis d'Uxelles.
PREPARING WOOD EARS
Also known as cloud ears, wood ears are an Asian fungus, commonly sold in dried form. Like dried mushrooms below, they must be reconstituted before use, when they swell into clusters of dark gelatinous lobes up to five times their dried size. They are used in stir-fries, soups and braised dishes.
Soak wood ears as for dried mushrooms below, then rinse thoroughly under cold running water to rid them of sand and grit lodged in the crevices. Dry thoroughly with a tea towel before use and trim off and discard the hard central stalks. Slice or chop wood ears according to individual recipe instructions.
RECONSTITUTING DRIED MUSHROOMS
Many different varieties of mushroom can be bought dried. These include Asian varieties such as shiitake and oyster mushrooms, and wild ones such as morels, ceps and chanterelles. Dried wild mushrooms are expensive but their flavour is highly concentrated, so even a very small quantity added to a dish will give a superb richness and depth. Add to dishes such as sauces, soups, omelettes, risottos, pasta sauces and stir-fries.
1. Put mushrooms in a bowl and cover with warm water. Leave to soak for 35-40 minutes or until they have softened.
2. Drain, then squeeze to extract the liquid. Strain the liquid and use with mushrooms.
TRUFFLES
There are two main types - the French black truffle from Périgord and the white truffle from Piedmont, northern Italy. The black truffle is eaten raw, used in stuffings and sauces, and braised or baked in pastry. White truffles are usually eaten raw.
CLEANING A BLACK TRUFFLE
Carefully scrub the truffle with a brush. If you like, peel off the knobbly skin with a vegetable peeler, finely chop the peelings and use in cooked dishes.
SLICING A TRUFFLE
Shave black or white truffles as thinly as possible with a vegetable peeler. Use shavings in cooking, or sprinkled raw on dishes like pasta, risotto, polenta and omelettes.
WILD MUSHROOMS
CEP: Porcini ''little pig'' in Italian, this variety has a chubby shape and bulbous cap.
CHANTERELLE: Golden-hued and concave, tasting of apricots.
MOREL: A slim conical cap and honeycomb exterior, with a sweet intensity to rival truffles.
PIED DE MOUTON (OR HEDGEHOG): Cream-coloured and fleshy with tiny white spines under the gills.
SAFETY FIRST
If you pick wild mushrooms yourself, do not eat anything you cannot positively identify as being edible. Eat wild mushrooms as soon as possible as they quickly deteriorate.
