Chillies
The often searingly hot properties of chillies call for careful handling. No matter what the variety, size or colour of the chilli, the preparation techniques are essentially the same.
PREPARING FRESH CHILLIES
Once cut open, chillies sting the skin, so prepare them with care. Wash hands, knife and cutting board thoroughly afterwards, and take particular care not to touch your eyes. Some cooks wear rubber gloves for extra protection.
1. Cut chilli lengthwise in half. Scrape out the seeds with a small knife, removing the membrane with them.
2. Flatten the chilli with the palm of your hand and slice lengthwise into strips with a chef's knife.
3. For dice, hold the strips firmly together and slice into equal-sized cubes.
REHYDRATING DRIED CHILLIES
Use dried chillies as a substitute for fresh chillies in cooking. They can be crushed or simply crumbled (with or without the seeds), or soaked and ground into a paste as here.
1. Spread dried chillies out on a baking sheet and toast them under a hot grill for 3-5 minutes, turning them frequently.
2. Transfer chillies to a bowl and cover with warm water. Let stand for 1 hour.
3. Drain the chillies and grind them to a paste in a pestle and mortar, then rub the paste through a sieve to remove the skins.
WHERE IS THE STING?
The intense fiery heat of chillies comes from the compound capsaicin. This oily substance is present to varying degrees in all parts of the chilli, but is strongest in the membrane and seeds inside the pod. For this reason, these parts are generally removed before cooking.
In some varieties of chilli, capsaicin neutralizes as the fruit ripens, making the heat less intense. As a general guide, green chillies are hotter than red and small chillies are hotter than large ones, but not always. Among the hottest are habañero and the tiny bird's-eye chillies. The mildest include sweet banana and the tapering green Anaheim chillies. Experiment with different kinds until you find those that best suit your needs - new varieties are constantly being introduced.
