Slow Cooking
Tough, sinewy cuts of meat require gentle slow cooking in aromatic liquids to allow time for fibrous tissues to soften and flavours to develop. Whole joints and pieces of meat can be cooked using this technique. For maximum flavour and tenderness, cool the meat in the liquid and reheat the next day.
POT ROASTING
Less prime joints benefit from slow cooking in liquid. This tenderizes sinews and imparts a rich flavour to the meat. Suitable cuts are boned and rolled brisket, topside and silverside of beef; shoulder and silverside of veal. A 1 kg boned and rolled joint takes about 2½ hours to cook.
1. For a good flavour and colour at the end of cooking, first sear the joint over a high heat in a little oil, turning until evenly browned.
2. After browning, add stock or wine or a mixture of the two, chopped vegetables such as onions and leeks, plus a bouquet garni and seasonings. Simmer gently or cook at 170°C until tender. Add root vegetables about 30 minutes before the end of cooking.
MAKING A STEW
Stewing or casseroling is a very moist method of cooking, perfect for less prime meat such as flank, shin and chuck. For best results, trim meat of excess fat and sinew and cut into equal-sized cubes, then brown in a flameproof casserole. Add liquid just to cover and cook in the same casserole, either on top of the stove or in a 170°C oven. A stew made with 1 kg meat takes 2-2½ hours to cook.
1. If the meat has been marinated, dry thoroughly on paper towels, then brown in batches over a high heat to seal in juices and add colour to the sauce.
2. Test for doneness by inserting the point of a small knife into one of the pieces of meat. The blade should slide easily through the fibres.
KNEADED BUTTER
This liaison of butter and flour, called beurre manié in French, is often used in French recipes to thicken stews and casseroles.
Put equal parts of unsalted butter and plain flour on a plate and cream together with a fork until a smooth paste is formed. Put the pan of liquid to be thickened on top of the stove and add the kneaded butter in small pieces, whisking vigorously. Bring the liquid to the boil and simmer, still whisking until thickened, adding more kneaded butter as necessary.
BRAISING SINEWY CUTS
When choosing beef or veal for braising, select tough cuts with a good amount of bone but not too much fat, such as the shin of veal shown here. Sinew and gristle break down during cooking to enrich the sauce. Only a small amount of liquid is used, so keep the dish tightly covered.
1. Brown the veal in hot oil. The coating of flour will form a crust around the meat and help thicken the sauce.
2. Turn the meat once or twice during braising so that it cooks evenly and takes on the flavour of the sauce.
COOKING SALT BEEF
Before refrigeration, meat was preserved by drying or salting in brine flavoured with herbs, spices and sugar. Today this is not necessary, but salt beef is still popular for its unique flavour and attractive pink colour. It is available at specialist butchers and some supermarkets.
Before cooking, soak salt beef in cold water overnight to remove excess saltiness. Drain and rinse in cold water, then place in a pan with roughly chopped vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips and potatoes, and freshly ground pepper. Cover with water and bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 2 hours or until tender.
COOKING IN A CLAY POT
In the Middle East meat is often slow cooked in a clay pot - the steam condenses inside the tight-fitting lid of the pot, drips back into the stew and makes the meat wonderfully moist. The conical lid of the pot shown here, a Moroccan tagine, is especially effective for this cooking method.
1. First brown cubes of beef in hot oil in a frying pan, then place in the bottom of the pot with dried fruit such as prunes or apricots, thinly pared lemon or orange zest, hot beef stock and seasonings.
2. Cover the pot tightly with its lid, sealing it with a flour and water paste if you like. Cook in a 170°C oven for 2 hours. Serve hot, sprinkled with chopped fresh herbs.
