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Vareniki
Ukrainian Dumplings
Vareniki
These excellent Ukrainian dumplings were purportedly the writer Gogol's favourite food, and he was quite a connoisseur. In true Russian philosophical style, he is said to have mused on occasion: over the inconceivability of life without his beloved vareniki. Others, who have lived in the Ukraine are likely to share Gogol's sentiments. the painter Malevich, long after his Ukrainian childhood had passed, still fondly recalled boiled vareniki with cherries, covered with soured cream and dark Ukrainian honey. Vareniki are a very adaptable food, changing with the seasons. They are perhaps most glorious in mid-summer when served stuffed with fresh berries, cherries, or plums. In autumn, field mushrooms are likely to replace the summertime fruits, while the heavier demands of a cold winter season call for kasha and sauerkraut. Ukrainians serve the most popular vareniki of all - filled with curd cheese (tvorog) all year round. They make a savoury main course or a slightly sweetened dessert.
Ingredients
Makes about 8 to 10 dozen dumplings.
12 oz (340 g) plain flour
2 egg yolks
½ teaspoon salt
½ pint (300 ml) water
Tvorog filling
1 lb (450 g) tvorog (seep. 171) or 2 tablespoons soured cream
Curd cheese
3 oz (85 g) sugar (optional)
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
Pinch of salt (optional)
Cherry filling
2 lb (900 g) sour cherries
1½ oz (45 g) cornflour
10 oz (280 g) sugar
1 oz (30 g) plain flour
Method
Place the flour and salt in a bowl and make a well in the centre. Add the egg yolks and water, gradually, and work with your hands until a fairly stiff dough is formed, adding more water if necessary. Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface, then place under an overturned bowl and leave to rest for 1 hour.
Roll the dough out very thinly to 1/16 in (1.15 mm) thick or less. Cu t into 4 in (10cm) rounds. Place the desired filling on each round, shape into half-moons, crimping the edges with a fork to seal. Place on a tea towel and cover with another towel until ready to boil.
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, drop in the vareniki and boil gently until they rise to the surface, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve immediately.
Tvorog filling: - Mix together well all of the ingredients, adding the sugar and lemon rind if sweet dessert vareniki are desired. Place ½ teaspoon on each round of dough. Serve these vareniki with plenty of melted butter and soured cream, and, if desired, browned breadcrumbs.
Cherry filling: - Stone the cherries and mix them with 2 oz (60 g) sugar. [Canned sour cherries may be used if no fresh ones are available. Use two 1 lb (450g) cans of cherries. Drain the liquid and reserve it to add to the juice produced by the cherries] Leave in a warm spot (ideally in the sun) for several hours, stirring occasionally. he cherries will produce about ¼ pint (150 ml) of juice. Add enough water to make ¾ pint (450 ml). Pour into a saucepan and stir in the remaining sugar. Dissolve the cornflour in a little of the liquid.
Bring the syrup to the boil and then stir in the dissolved cornflour, mixing well. Simmer for 5 minutes. Keep warm over low heat.
Dredge the cherries in 1 oz (30 g) plain flour. Place 2 cherries on each round of dough. Seal. Boil as directed above. Serve with the cherry sauce or with buckwheat honey. These are very sweet!
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