Charlotte Russe -

Charlotte Russe

This is the name given to a cold sweet that is set in a plain round mould (similar to a deep cake tin) with gently sloping sides widening out at the top. Bavarian cream (bavarois) is a rich egg custard stiffened or set with gelatine, and whipped cream added. Charlotte russe was created by the famous early 19th century chef Careme while he was in Paris, where it first graced the tables of Foreign Ministers and Ministers of Security.

Ingredients

1 pint lemon jelly
Few glacé cherries
Few diamonds of angelica
12 sponge fingers (ready made)

For Bavarian cream

½ pint milk
1 vanilla pod, or 2-3 drops of vanilla essence
3 egg yolks
1 rounded tablespoon caster sugar
¾ oz gelatine (soaked in 3 tablespoons water)
⅓-½ pint double cream

Charlotte tin (1½ pints capacity)

Method

Prepare the jelly and when cool, but still liquid, pour a little into the bottom of the charlotte tin to the depth of ¼ inch. Leave to set. Arrange a pattern of cherries and angelica on this layer and set carefully with a little more jelly.

Keep remaining jelly for deco­ration. Trim the sides of the sponge fingers and fit closely round the sides of the tin.

To prepare the Bavarian cream: scald the milk with the vanilla pod and leave to infuse (to absorb the flavour), but if using vanilla essence do not add yet. Cream the egg yolks and sugar until light in texture. Pour the milk, removing the vanilla pod, on to egg mixture; return to the pan and stir over heat until the resulting custard coats the back of a spoon.

Watchpoint: Do not boil or the mixture will curdle. If this does happen, quickly tip the mixture into a large, cold mixing bowl and whisk vigorously for 1-2 minutes.

Strain custard mixture into a bowl, add the soaked gelatine, stir until dissolved and then allow to cool. If using vanilla essence, add at this point.

Then whip the cream very lightly with a wire whisk or fork. Return mixture to a saucepan and stand this in another bowl of cold water in which there are a few ice cubes. Stir gently until it starts to thicken evenly. Quickly fold whipped cream into the mixture. Pour at once into the prepared charlotte tin, cover with foil, or a plate, and leave to set in the refrigerator. (All dairy produce will pick up other flavours in a refrigerator so never leave uncovered.)

For serving, dip the bottom of the mould quickly in and out of hot water, turn carefully on to a plate (traditionally of silver but any decorative one will do). Chop any remaining jelly and spoon it around the charlotte russe.

Related food category:

• Jellies and Charlottes