This classic Russian appetiser is none other than meat (or sometimes poultry) moulded in aspic. The names studen’ and kholodets both derive from Slavic roots meaning ‘chill’ and ‘cold’, and indeed the aspic must be thoroughly chilled before unmoulding. Served on a decorative platter with hot Russian-style mustard, studen’ is a notable addition to the zakuska table.
Ingredients
7 pints (4 litres) cold water
1 tablespoon salt
2½ lb (1 kg) calf’s feet (or pig’s trotters)
2 bay leaves
1 lb (450 g) lean beef chuck, plus bone (or pork loin)
1 whole head garlic
1 lb (450 g) chicken necks, skin removed
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)
1 medium onion
1 medium carrot
8 black peppercorns
3 hard-boiled eggs
Method
In a large stockpot heat the water until warm. Then add the calf’s feet, beef, and chicken necks. Bring to the boil, then immediately reduce the heat to a simmer. Skim off the foam as it rises to the surface.
When the foam has stopped rising, add the onion, carrot, peppercorns and 1 tablespoon salt. Partially cover the pot and cook the broth over very low heat, at a gentle simmer, for 6 hours, until the broth is rich. It should be reduced by about half. One hour before the broth is ready, add the bay leaves. After 6 hours, strain the liquid through several layers of cheesecloth into a clean pot. There should be about 3½ pints (2 litres).
Discard the carrot and onion. Remove the meat from the chicken necks and shred it along with the beef. Peel the whole head of garlic and press the cloves through a garlic press. Stir in 2 teaspoons salt and the black pepper. Mix well with the shredded meat. Prepare two 2 pint (1 litre) moulds by brushing them very lightly with vegetable oil. Pour in enough broth to cover the bottom of the mould generously, then refrigerate until the broth has jelled. Top the jelled layer with sliced hard-boiled eggs and other garnish, if desired. Place a layer of meat on top of the eggs and pour on the remaining broth to cover.
Place in the refrigerator and allow to chill for 8 hours or overnight. Scrape off any fat that has formed on the surface. To turn out, run a knife carefully around the edges of the jelly to loosen it. Wrap the mould for just a moment in a hot tea towel, then place a serving platter over it and invert the studen’ on to the plate. Serve it well chilled with a pot of spicy mustard on the side.