Globe Artichokes
These are members of the thistle family. What we eat are actually the flower buds, which can be put to different uses depending on the way they are prepared. You can cook the whole artichoke or just the heart.
PREPARING AND COOKING WHOLE ARTICHOKES
In mature artichokes, sets of green fleshy leaves tightly enclose the tender heart and purple hairy choke. Only the base of these leaves, the heart and sometimes the stalk are edible. Mature artichokes are always served cooked.
1. Hold the artichoke firmly and break off the stalk at the bottom, pulling out the tough fibres that are attached to it.
2. Cut off the top third of the artichoke and trim any tough outer leaves; discard. Place artichokes in a pan of boiling salted water with the juice of 1 lemon. Weight down with a plate and simmer for 20-35 minutes, depending on size.
3. Test for doneness by pulling gently at one of the leaves, which should come away easily.
4. Pull out the central cone of leaves and reserve. Remove the hairy choke with a spoon and discard.
5. Put the cone back in the artichoke, upside-down. Spoon in a filling of your choice.
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT
The stalks of very fresh, young artichokes are deliciously tender when cooked if they have been properly prepared. For best results, simply peel off the outer fibrous layer with a small paring knife, then cut lengthwise into sticks. Cook in boiling salted water with a squeeze of lemon juice to help retain colour.
SERVING WHOLE ARTICHOKES
Boiled whole artichokes are traditionally used as a receptacle for dressings, into which the outer leaves are dipped. Some dressing ideas are listed here, plus more substantial fillings.
• Vinaigrette dressing.
• Flaked crab meat, mixed with mayonnaise and lemon juice.
• Lemon-butter sauce flavoured with finely snipped chives.
• Hollandaise sauce spiked with Dijon mustard and grated orange zest.
• Tapenade (olive purée) thinned with olive oil.
• Aïoli.
• Pesto stirred into finely chopped tomatoes, seasoned with red wine vinegar.
• Crème fraîche or fromage frais dressing flavoured with chopped fresh dill.
PREPARING ARTICHOKE HEARTS
The heart or bottom of the artichoke is the tenderest, most delicious part, often eaten on its own without the outer leaves. In classic French cuisine, hearts are simmered in a blanc (a stock containing flour and lemon juice) to help them keep their colour, but this is not absolutely essential. After cooking, serve hearts whole with a sauce or stuffing in the centre, or slice and toss in a dressing.
1. Carefully trim off the tough outer green leaves from the artichoke with a chef's knife. Break off the stalk with your hands, then cut the base flat.
2. Hold the artichoke firmly and cut off the bottom third, taking care to include the heart; discard the top two-thirds.
3. Put the artichoke hearts in a bowl of cold water with half a lemon. This will help to prevent the artichokes from discolouring.
4. Place the hearts in a pan of boiling salted water, weight down with a plate and simmer for 15-20 minutes.
5. Test for doneness by piercing the heart with the tip of a paring knife. Drain well. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the hairy choke with a melon baller, and discard.
BABY ARTICHOKES
Baby artichokes are a particular delicacy. They can be eaten whole including the stalk and outer leaves and even the choke, which is barely developed. Here are some serving suggestions.
• Boil them for 3-4 minutes until tender, quarter them and serve warm with a vinagrette dressing.
• Thinly slice them raw, then mix with olives and cherry tomatoes and dress with fruity extra-virgin olive oil and coarsely ground sea salt.
• Fry them whole in olive oil to make the Italian speciality carciofi alla giudea.
• Halve them and bake in a sauce made of fresh tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and basil.
• Simmer them until tender in water with olive oil, lemon juice, thyme, bay leaves and coriander seeds to make artichauts à la grecque. Let them cool in the liquid before draining and serving.
